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兩用領(lǐng)是翻領(lǐng)的一種。望文生義。這種領(lǐng)子可開(kāi)可閉。制造如下：
A 一片領(lǐng)在領(lǐng)內(nèi)邊際翻折，外領(lǐng)線(xiàn)輕輕彎曲，有領(lǐng)角外型。
B兩片領(lǐng)在領(lǐng)外邊際處有縫線(xiàn)，領(lǐng)外邊際與領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)均有彎曲及領(lǐng)角外型。
本章將評(píng)論這兩種領(lǐng)的制造。
款A(yù) 與款 B

一片式兩用領(lǐng)。
圖 1 和圖 1A
A 需將領(lǐng)子連在前后樣板的領(lǐng)圍處，在領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)處需留必定的松份，調(diào)整如下：
1 在后基地線(xiàn)與肩線(xiàn)處的領(lǐng)圍均削減1/8英寸（0.3CM）；
2 將前基地線(xiàn)處減量1/2-1/2 英寸（0.6-1.3CM）；肩線(xiàn)處減量 1/8 英寸（0.3CM）。
3 畫(huà)出新領(lǐng)線(xiàn)（虛線(xiàn)）。
B規(guī)劃領(lǐng)子尺度：
1 從后基地線(xiàn)到肩線(xiàn)的新領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)；
2 從后基地線(xiàn)到前基地線(xiàn)的新領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)；
兩用領(lǐng)在后基地處寬度一般取2 1/2 - 3 1/2 英寸（6.4-8.9CM），太寬了，會(huì)使領(lǐng)部感受不
舒服。
圖 2

A 剪一塊尺度大概為 12 英寸 *18英寸（30.5CM*45.7CM）的紙一張。
B將紙半數(shù)，壓出折痕，翻開(kāi)。在折痕上畫(huà)一條線(xiàn)，標(biāo)示“折疊線(xiàn)”（領(lǐng)邊）。
C 在紙的左面。畫(huà)一條線(xiàn)垂直于折疊線(xiàn)，取量等于領(lǐng)子寬度。標(biāo)示“后基地線(xiàn)”，如
圖2 1/2英寸（6.4CM），在后基地線(xiàn)上標(biāo)點(diǎn)“A”。
D 過(guò)A 點(diǎn)畫(huà)一條線(xiàn)平行于折疊線(xiàn)，長(zhǎng)度為前后領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)長(zhǎng)度之和。標(biāo)示“領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)”。在領(lǐng)
圍線(xiàn)上標(biāo)點(diǎn)“B.”。
E 過(guò) . 點(diǎn)畫(huà)一條線(xiàn)垂直于折疊線(xiàn)，并與之相交，標(biāo)為“前基地線(xiàn)”。
F 從 # 點(diǎn)在領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)上量后領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)長(zhǎng)度，該處為肩頸點(diǎn)方位，做上符號(hào)，標(biāo)上“肩頸
點(diǎn)”。
圖 3
A 從B 點(diǎn)沿前基地線(xiàn)向上量取1/2 英寸（1.3CM），標(biāo)點(diǎn)，標(biāo)為“C”。
B 從C點(diǎn)至肩頸點(diǎn)畫(huà)一直線(xiàn)（虛線(xiàn)）。
C 在C 點(diǎn)與屑頸點(diǎn)這段虛線(xiàn)中點(diǎn)向下量 1/8 英寸（(0.3CM）處標(biāo)點(diǎn)，過(guò)此點(diǎn)、肩頸點(diǎn)及
C點(diǎn)畫(huà)一條弧線(xiàn)，作為新的前領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)。
圖4

A 用大頭針將領(lǐng)子紙樣固定到另一片紙上。在不和拓印一切線(xiàn)條和兩肩頸點(diǎn)。
B 移開(kāi)紙樣。將領(lǐng)子紙樣相對(duì)放置。用鉛筆畫(huà)出所描線(xiàn)跡。核實(shí)一切構(gòu)造線(xiàn)。
C標(biāo)示后基地線(xiàn)。在紙樣上標(biāo)上“領(lǐng)里”和“領(lǐng)面”（圖 8 和圖 8A）。
闡明：當(dāng)領(lǐng)子兩頭都縫上時(shí)，它將有一個(gè)彎曲的趨勢(shì)，尤其是領(lǐng)尖角度很小時(shí)。要處理
這個(gè)疑問(wèn)，就要在領(lǐng)尖兩頭都留有松份。而不是僅留在領(lǐng)寬線(xiàn)側(cè)。
D 領(lǐng)面領(lǐng)寬線(xiàn)從后基地線(xiàn)開(kāi)端向上量取 1/16英寸（0.2CM）。畫(huà)一條線(xiàn)到間隔領(lǐng)尖大概1/2英寸（3.8CM）處漸成錐形。從此點(diǎn)持續(xù)畫(huà)到領(lǐng)圍線(xiàn)，逐步放出 1/16 英寸（0.2CM）的余量（如圖 (" 細(xì)心畫(huà)出虛線(xiàn)）。
E 在領(lǐng)面上標(biāo)出后基地線(xiàn)點(diǎn)。在領(lǐng)里上間隔后基地線(xiàn) 1/4 英寸（0.6CM）處標(biāo)示。
F 完結(jié)領(lǐng)子紙樣，留出縫頭，沿線(xiàn)剪開(kāi)并打剪口（圖 9 和圖9A）。
G 依據(jù)規(guī)劃要求畫(huà)出經(jīng)向線(xiàn)。

A lapel collar is a dual-purpose. Take the words too literally。 This collar can be opened and closed. Made as follows:
A a piece of collar in the collar of the marginal turn off, the outer collar line gently bending, there is a collar angle shape.
B two pieces of collar in the collar outside the edge of the suture, collar and collar edge of the line are bent and collar corner shape.
This chapter will comment on the manufacturing of these two kinds of.
Paragraph A and paragraph B
A piece of dual purpose collar.
Figure 1 and figure 1A
A need to connect the collar around the front and back samples, in the collar around the line to stay a certain degree of relaxation, adjusted as follows:
1 in the rear base line and the collar around the collar are cut 1/8 inches (0.3CM);
2 will be reduced to the former base line 1/2-1/2 inches (0.6-1.3CM); shoulder line at a reduction of 1/8 inches (0.3CM).
3 draw a new line (dashed line).
B planning collar size:
1 from the rear base line to the shoulder line of the new collar Wai line;
2 from the rear base line to the front line of the new collar line;
Dual purpose led at the back of the base width of 2 1/2 - 3 6.4-8.9CM inches (1/2), too wide, will not feel the collar
Comfortable.
Figure 2
A cut a piece of paper with a size of about 12 inches *18 inches (30.5CM*45.7CM).
B will turn out half of paper, fold. Draw a line in the fold, labeled "folding line" (leading edge).
C in the paper on the left. Draw a line perpendicular to the fold line, the amount is equal to the collar width. Marked "after the base line", such as
Figure 2 1/2 inches (6.4CM), at the back of the base line mark "A"".
D A drawing a line parallel to the folding line, the length and the length of a line before and after the collar. Lead enclosed line". In the collar
On line punctuation "B.".
E. Drawing a line perpendicular to the fold line, and crosses marked "base line".
F from # point at the collar after the collar line line length, the shoulder neck point range, do sign, marked "shoulder and neck
Point".
Figure 3
A from the B point along the front base line up to take the amount of 1/2 inches (1.3CM), punctuation, labeled "C"".
B from the C point to a straight neck and shoulder point (dashed line).
C in the C point and chip neck point of the dotted line point down 1/8 inches (0.3CM) at the point of punctuation, over this point, shoulder and neck points and
C draw a straight line, as the new front collar line.
Figure 4
A will be folded along the fold line, and fixed with a pin.
B draw a planned lead angle. The dotted line is not the same as the lead angle.
C in base line, after rubbing with origami collar line, a new front collar line, shoulder and neck and collar corner.
Figure 5
A opened the printed pattern, stitch and shoulder neck point with a pencil.
B on the map marked "collar face" and "collar" (as shown).
C from the beginning of the base line, in the collar around the line, according to the fabric thickness is not the same as set aside 1/8 - 1/16 inch (0.2-0.3CM) of the loose parts, the collar tip does not stay loose parts, constitute a cone. Exactly as the dotted line is drawn.
The collar is a loose line added in order to get the smooth surface can be folded together, also shade the collar to collar seam line
Trace. This principle is applicable to all along the fold line cut neck width collar line, and similar Chinese collar collar outside.
D in the face of the line after the marked line; in the collar after the interval between the base line 1/4 inch 10.6CM mark.
The collar and collar symbols on different range is located, in order to identify the collar and collar.
E based on the planning to draw the line.
F the end of the pattern, set aside the joint head, cut and cut mouth.
Figure 5A
The schematic icon shows the opening of a piece of collar, and indicates the orientation of the collar on the contact with the rear base line.
Figure 6A and Figure 6
The two icon sketch a collar, but in line with stitch collar width. A loose portion is set aside from the collar line to replace the collar of this type. As shown in the figure, at the neck of the neck does not stay loose parts, constitute a cone.
C
The wide line is the two piece of the arc.
This collar because of the appearance, so can not be cut into a piece of.
A reference "manufacturing the collar pattern, as shown in Figure 1, figure 2 and figure 3.
B in the fold line to mark the point of the shoulder and neck, to the point as the benchmark, to make a wide line and collar tip shape (dashed line).
Figure 8 figure 8A Figure 9 and figure 9A
A will be fixed with a pin collar pattern to another piece of paper. In all two lines with rubbing and shoulder neck point.
Remove the B pattern. The relative placement of collar pattern. Use a pencil to draw a trace. Verify all construction lines.
C mark after base line. In the pattern marked with "collar" and "collar" (Fig. 8 and Fig. 8A).
It will have a curved trend, especially when the collar is sewn on both ends. To deal with
This question, you want to stay at the tip of the tip are loose copies. Rather than just stay on the line side.
D collar wide line from the base line to the beginning of the amount of 1/16 inches (0.2CM). Draw a line to the gap between the tip of the 1/2 inch (3.8CM) is gradually tapered. From this point to the continuous collar line, gradually release the 1/16 inch (0.2CM) margin (Figure ("carefully draw a dashed line).
E in the face of the line after the line points out. Mark the base line 1/4 inch (0.6CM) at the top of the collar.
F end collar pattern, set aside the joint head, cut and cut along the estuary (Fig. 9 and Fig. 9A).
G draw the line according to the planning requirements.

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