1,對(duì)于較長(zhǎng)的弧線和慢轉(zhuǎn)彎處,裁剪刀路要一氣呵成,裁順理平,裁刀路線上不能有缺口或鋸齒形。裁刀盡可能均速運(yùn)行,如西褲的側(cè)縫線處,畫線時(shí)要畫順,裁剪時(shí)要裁順,縫紉時(shí)要做順,才能滿足褲側(cè)弧線的質(zhì)量要求。
2,裁剪到拐角處時(shí),應(yīng)盡量從兩個(gè)方向分別進(jìn)刀。在拐角處移刀,而是不直接拐角走剪,這樣才能保證拐角處的裁剪精度。
3,裁剪時(shí)要保持刀片與面料的垂直,以免造成各層衣片間的誤差。
4,裁剪時(shí)先開外口,然后再開里口。先裁橫斷,再裁直斷,這樣更加方便裁剪操作。
5,隨時(shí)保證裁刀始終鋒利,更不能有刃缺口,以保證裁片邊緣光潔順直、整齊圓順。
6,衣片上的剪口是為縫合所做的記號(hào),其精度直接影響縫紉工序。一是位置精度,二是形狀精
度,三是大小精度。一般剪口控制在0.3㎝大小左右。
7,裁剪人員要不斷研究不同面料、不同鋪料厚度的裁剪用力特點(diǎn),不斷熟練運(yùn)刀技術(shù),熟悉設(shè)備性能和面料性能。
8,與排料順序相反,裁剪時(shí)行裁小面積的衣片,后裁大面積的衣片。反之,最后剩下的小料不易控制裁刀,給操作帶來困難。
9,用左手輕壓面料,用力柔和,不可用力過大、過死,更不可偏離垂直方向向四周用力,否則將會(huì)造成面料鋪層錯(cuò)位,影響精度。用右手輕推剪刀沿排料線向前。
1, for longer arc and slow turning, the cutting tool path to form a coherent whole, cut smooth flat, cutting line can not have notched or toothed. Cutter as uniformly as possible speed operation, such as trousers of the side seam, when drawing a line to draw, cutting to cut along, sewing to shun, in order to meet pants side arc in the quality requirements.
2, cut to the corner, should be from two directions respectively feed. At the corner of the knife, but not directly to the corner of the cut, so as to ensure the cutting accuracy of the corner.
3, cut to keep the vertical blade and the fabric, so as not to cause the error between the layers of clothing.
4, when the first cut away, then open the mouth. Cut the first cut, then cut straight, so more convenient cutting operation.
5, at any time to ensure that the knife is always sharp, but can not have the edge of the gap, to ensure that the cutting edge smooth and straight, Zheng Qiyuan shun.
6, the shear port on the piece of clothing is the mark that is made for stitching, its precision directly affects the sewing process. One is the position precision, two is the shape precision, three is the size precision. General cut 0.3 cm in size control.
7, cutting personnel should continue to study the different fabrics, different thickness of the cutting force of the cutting force, and constantly familiar with the knife technology, familiar with the equipment performance and fabric performance.
8, in contrast with the discharge order, garment cutting or cutting a small area of the garment after cutting a large area. On the contrary, the last remaining small material is not easy to control the cutting knife, to bring difficulties to the operation.
9, with the left hand gently press the fabric, soft, not too hard, too dead, more can not deviate from the vertical direction to the surrounding force, otherwise it will cause the fabric layer dislocation, affect the accuracy of. With the right nudge along the discharge line forward scissors.
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